So, the boiling point of a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water in a properly functioning system is about 265 degrees or higher, giving your engine a bit more leeway before the coolant overheats. This increases the boiling point of the coolant by about 40 degrees.
Pressurizing the cooling system also raises the coolant's boiling point, so the radiator cap (which is sometimes located on the engine or the coolant reservoir) has a pressure valve to raise the pressure in the cooling system by around 15 psi. In this case, however, the heated air is blown into the passenger compartment. This thermostat may be located just before coolant leaves the engine to flow into the upper radiator hose or at the inlet to the water pump, the latter of which is the preferred location on most newer cars.Ĭoolant also flows through hoses that run into and out of the heater, which gives off its heat to the surrounding air like a miniature radiator. The coolant also heats a temperature-sensitive valve called a thermostat that opens at around 195 degrees Fahrenheit to allow the coolant to flow through the radiator. When the engine is cold, coolant circulates only within the engine, so the engine heat can warm it up faster. The cooled coolant then gets pumped out of the radiator through the lower radiator hose and back into the engine, where the cycle starts all over again. Fins attached to the metal radiator tubes draw heat away from the coolant and dissipate it into the air drawn through the radiator by fans and the forward motion of the car. These tubes are typically aluminum on newer cars, which is one of the reasons why choosing the right coolant is important. The water pump then moves that heated coolant through the upper radiator hose and into the radiator, which is a heat exchanger filled with metal tubes. The coolant mixture heats up as it circulates through the engine. Simply put, a water pump circulates a mixture of antifreeze and water between your car’s engine and radiator.
Always keep in mind where you plan to drive and store your car, and choose an antifreeze that will be able to withstand the full range of high and low temperatures your car experiences.
Frozen water in the cooling system can crack vital components of your car’s engine, including the engine block. In the winter months, antifreeze does just that: it doesn’t freeze in colder weather like water does. Of course, coolant really has two main jobs, which is why the terms “coolant” and “antifreeze” are interchangeable. If you want your car to cool itself efficiently, you need all of these engine components to remain in good working order. Aluminum needs superb corrosion protection to survive, and the corrosion-inhibiting qualities of regular green and red antifreeze get used up in about two years. The two primary heat exchangers-the radiator and heater-are also aluminum.
Today's engines are loaded with aluminum components, including cylinder heads, water pumps, manifolds, and even engine blocks. Should you leave it in? If it's been two years or more since the last time you drained it, the answer is probably no. It's a nice shade of green, or maybe red or even orange. You take off the cap and look at the coolant. Consult the owner's manual, your car’s manufacturer, or a trusted mechanic for more specific information on your vehicle. This choice is to simplify things as all our VW Diesels are running that as factory fill.Flushing and replacing coolant is a moderately difficult repair job. I will be soon installing Pentosin G-12+ "Lifetime" antifreeze in a 50/50 max % mix. I've driven it enough (too much but it got busy) to say my repair is good. I have completed my radiator replacement and put in water only to confirm no leaks. Once you have the system purged of the old mixed potion, drain again at least 1.35 gallons of water, then add the same of 100% coolant to get 50/50. Keep a 1/2 gallon of premix in the truck for future top offs. It's the only way to "start fresh" with the correct mix of the the correct coolant. I would however, drain/refill with distilled water/drive with the heat on and repeat until you get clear water out of the petcock. Has your van been runnig normal temps? If so, IMO leave it alone. About 1 pint low will trip that indicator.Īs for flushing with some chemical concoction, your call. Could be as simple as a new radiator cap really. If your low coolant light came on a year after a leak repair, I'd not link that to a cooling system issue, more a trivial "vapor" leak that you may never find. Have you been able to grab a sample to see any odd discoloration?
There are coolant mixing issues to be aware of out there, (look up Dexkill). I don't know if you've damaged your cooling system.